Hey everyone, welcome back to The World of Geckos! I'm James Walker, and as always, I'm joined by the wonderful Charlotte Davies. Today, we're diving into something super practical—setting up the perfect crested gecko habitat. Charlotte, I know you love a good terrarium setup as much as I do.Oh, absolutely, James. There's something so satisfying about creating a little slice of rainforest in your living room, isn't there? And with crested geckos, vertical space is really the name of the game. They just adore climbing, so you want a tall enclosure—ideally, something like 18 by 18 by 24 inches for an adult. That's about 20 to 30 gallons, if you're thinking in those terms.Yeah, and I always tell folks, don't skimp on height. I made that mistake with my first crestie. I thought, "Oh, this 12 by 12 by 18 starter tank will be fine," but, uh, let's just say my gecko looked at me like, "Really, dude?" And, uh, speaking of mistakes, I learned the hard way about secure latches. Cresties are like little spring-loaded ninjas. I came home one day and—poof—no gecko. Luckily, I found him behind the bookshelf, but, yeah, get a good latch or a clip. Trust me.Oh, I've heard so many stories like that! They're escape artists, aren't they? And once you've got your enclosure, you want to think about the environment inside. Temperature is key—aim for 72 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and let it drop a bit at night, but not below 68. Humidity should hover around 60 to 80 percent, with a nice daily spike if you can manage it. I like to let it dip to about 50 before misting again, just to mimic those natural cycles.Yeah, and don't forget lighting. Even though crested geckos don't need super intense UVB, a low-level UVB strip—like 2 to 5 percent—can help with their circadian rhythm and keep your plants happy if you're going bioactive. And, uh, a digital thermo-hygro controller is a lifesaver. I used to just guess, but now I get alarms if things go out of range. Makes life so much easier.Absolutely. And for substrate, coconut fiber is a classic, but if you're feeling adventurous, a bioactive setup is brilliant. You start with a drainage layer—Hydroballs or LECA—then a mesh, then a good three or four inches of an ABG-style mix, and finally, a thick layer of leaf litter. Add some springtails and isopods, and you've got a self-cleaning little ecosystem. It's a bit more work at the start, but so rewarding.Yeah, and if you're just starting out, paper towel or coco-fiber is fine for the first month. Makes it easier to monitor your gecko and keep things clean while you get the hang of it. But, man, once you go bioactive, it's hard to go back.So, once you've got your enclosure and environment sorted, it's time for the fun part—furnishing! I love arranging cork rounds, jungle vines, and background ledges. The trick is to create a zig-zag of perches from the floor to the canopy, so your gecko can shuttle between different temperature and humidity zones. And don't forget feeding ledges—magnetic or suction-cup ones are great for keeping food off the ground and making your gecko feel secure.Yeah, and plants! Live or silk, both work, but live plants like pothos or philodendron really help with humidity and give your gecko places to hide. I, uh, always end up with more plants than I planned. It's like, "Oh, I'll just add one more," and suddenly it's a jungle in there.I know exactly what you mean! And for substrate mixes, I have to say, I love using a blend of coconut fiber, orchid bark, and a bit of sphagnum moss. Then I top it all off with a thick layer of leaf litter. Not only does it look natural, but it encourages all those lovely natural behaviors—burrowing, hunting, even just exploring. Plus, the leaf litter helps keep the humidity up and gives your cleanup crew somewhere to hide.Yeah, and speaking of hunting, let's talk food. The staple is a commercial crested gecko diet—Pangea or Repashy are both solid. Mix it fresh every other night, and your gecko will be happy. But I like to offer live insects, like gut-loaded crickets or dubia roaches, a couple times a week. Just make sure they're dusted with calcium. And, uh, use an escape-proof feeding cup, or you'll be chasing crickets around your living room. Not that I've done that. Okay, I have.Haven't we all? And hydration is so important. I always provide a small water dish, but honestly, most cresties prefer to lick droplets off leaves and glass after misting. So, regular misting is a must. Twice a day works well, or you can invest in an automatic misting system if you're out and about a lot.Yeah, and if you want to go all out, a MistKing system is fantastic. It automates everything, so you don't have to worry if you go away for a weekend. But hand-spraying works just fine, too. Just, uh, don't forget. I've definitely had those "oh no" moments when I realized I skipped a misting.Alright, so you've got your plan, but where do you actually get all this stuff? Honestly, reptile expos like Repticon are a goldmine. You can talk to vendors, see products in person, and sometimes snag show specials. I always recommend chatting with folks at booths like The Bio Dude or Pangea Reptile—they know their stuff and often have deals you won't find online.Definitely. And don't overlook your local pet stores—places like Petco or PetSmart usually have the basics, like tanks, vines, and commercial diets. If you're after something more specialized, online retailers like Josh's Frogs or The Bio Dude are brilliant. Josh's Frogs, for example, is great for live plants and springtails, while The Bio Dude has fantastic bioactive kits that take a lot of the guesswork out of setup. Premium Crickets.com has an amazing selection of live feeder insects shipped right to your door.Yeah, and if you're in a hurry, Amazon or Chewy can fill in the gaps—thermostats, replacement bulbs, that sort of thing. But, uh, just double-check reviews and make sure you're getting the right size and type for your setup.And before you bring your gecko home, do a step-by-step check. Warm up the enclosure to about 75 degrees, make sure humidity is stable, and have everything ready—food, water, hides, the lot. When you pick up your gecko, check that it's eating powdered diet and has healthy toes and tail. For transport, a ventilated deli cup and an insulated tote are perfect to avoid heat shock.Yeah, and I love hearing success stories from listeners. We actually got a message from Sam in Atlanta, who followed advice from Repticon and Josh's Frogs. She set up her enclosure ahead of time, used a bioactive kit, and her gecko settled in right away—no stress, no issues. It's always great to see folks putting this stuff into practice and having a smooth start.That's what it's all about, isn't it? Setting your gecko up for success from day one. And, honestly, once you've got the basics down, it's such a rewarding hobby. There's always more to learn, but that's part of the fun.Absolutely. And, hey, if you run into any snags—mist cycles, planting ideas, whatever—don't be shy about reaching out. We're always happy to help. Well, that's all for today's episode. Charlotte, as always, it's been a pleasure.Likewise, James. And thank you to everyone listening. We'll be back soon with more gecko goodness, so stay tuned—and happy herping!Take care, everyone. See you next time!

Episodes

Setting Up the Perfect Crested Gecko Habitat